Montmarte

This is a Montmartre appreciation piece. I fell in love with this charming area during my first few weeks as a student in Paris. The neighborhood is charming, historic, and filled with affordable dining options for a twenty-year-old on a budget. Montmartre is especially desirable during the winter months when there are less people milling about, and you can feel the holiday spirit in the air. My favorite time to visit is in December despite the fact that it does get brutally cold at the top of le butte. If you are not hardened to the bitter chill of Parisian winter – you can usually find someone brewing vin chaud (hot wine) in the village. It may sound strange at first, but if you’re cold enough – you’ll take the chance. This drink is in fact delicious and can be found all over Europe during the winter months. It will literally warm you from the inside out, and you’ll soon forget about your nose freezing off. 

Montmartre is most well-known for the structure pictured here – Sacre Coeur or sacred heart. This basilique is the second most visited landmark in the city. Tourists flock to the highest point in Paris to revel in its beauty and snap photos. Street performers scale lamp posts while bouncing soccer balls between one another. These acrobats are highly skilled and have been performing for as long as I can remember. For reference, I visit Sacre-Coeur every time I am in Paris and these guys were still putting on show during my last visit! (My first trip was in 2012 and my most recent was in the fall of 2019). 

If street performers, iconic landmarks, and hot wine aren’t enough, the local art scene will surely convince you! The streets are filled with talented artists of all sorts working on pieces in privacy, or urging you to let them create a souvenir for you. Tyler and I let a talented man with scissors delicately sculpt our profiles into a beautiful card. I still don’t understand how he was so skilled with such an unusual tool. Montmartre has a kitschy aspect to it that is endearing but it can definitely become overwhelming in the summer months. My advice is to stay away from mid-day tours and try to visit first thing in the morning. 

Another one of my favorite things to do in Montmartre is indulge in the incredible food. My favorite brasserie La Boheme is easily recognizable on the main strip. Equipped with a classic French awning and teeny tables littered around either side of the building - you’ll know it when you see it. The waiters are friendly, the mussels overflow the pots, and the beer is ice cold (perfect for a hot summer afternoon). Pommes frites or French fries as we’ve so lovingly branded them are served piping hot and will easily burn your mouth if you dig in too quickly! I recommend spending at least an hour here. La Boheme is perfect for people watching.

One of the reasons I adore French restaurants is the “no rush” mentality. I love to eat slowly and enjoy my food over good conversation. I never understood why we have to rush our meals in America, or why there are so few great people watching spaces. The French really understand this concept and the little village of Montmartre is no exception. As a rule of thumb, try to find a place that looks like it caters to locals as well as tourists. If someone is beckoning, you in from the street – they are ONLY catering to tourists. The true Parisians could really care less if you come to eat at their establishment but, once you’re there – you’ll know you made the right decision.

Now, the most wonderful thing of all is the commute to Montmartre. If you refuse to hike around the beautiful architecture and historic district, then you can take the Funicular railway which costs around 5 euros and takes less than 5 minutes to reach the top. I highly recommend walking/hiking to the top because there are stunning examples of French culture visible along the way that should not be missed. The walk down to town is just as fun, and you will discover that there are great restaurants, boutiques, and cafés at the base of the butte as well!